Coober Pedy, Marla and Kulgera to the Alice and environs



Sunset at the Kulgera Pub, first and last pub in the NT.


Coober Pedy to Alice
Once we had completed being “dustbusters” (Dallas) in the van and then replaced all of the underfloor van plumbing pipes together with 4 cabinet catches (Pete) we were ready to move on. We had a look down the Coober Pedy main street for Dallas’s favourite vanilla slice (best in Australia?) but the guy had to move out of town quickly, or, so we were told. Quite disappointing!

We filled the van with $3.00 worth of fresh water and bought some deep sea flathead from a fish monger on the side of the road. His fish was from Pt Lincoln and all freshly frozen. Within about two and half hours were in Marla for lunch. After this we drove on to Kulgera, the first and last pub in NT, arriving at about 3.30pm. So we checked into the Pub caravan Park for the night at $25.00. Once settled we went to the Kulgera Pub for the Happy Hour. The pub was packed out with many travellers and one group of motor bike riders. A good night before returning to the van for our lasagne meal. The ceiling of the Pub is adorned with ladies bras in aid of Breast Cancer, quite an effective piece of décor except that one chap decided to put up a pair of his undies, they were about size 5XXXXXX large and in need of a wash!

In the morning we departed the Kulgera Pub and drove to the Alice. Arrived there about 11.30am and checked into the Big 4 McDonnel Ranges Caravan Park. Been there before, a little exxy but worth it for clean and tidy facilities. After setting up camp we went to town and did some shopping part of which was a small sirloin beef roast which came up real nice for dinner done with roast vegies in the Z and B barbie. This was pretty well day one in the Alice done.

Next morning we drove 127 kms to Hermannsberg, Finke River Mission station. This is the home of Albert Namatjira, famed water colour artist from central Australia. On our last trip we did not get out to Hermannsberg and were told by quite a few we did not miss anything. Due to my love for Albert Namatjira’s art I am glad we went. I would strongly advise all Australians to go to Hermannsberg to see for themselves. The Lutherans did a good job in most respects except I do not think the aborigines they cared for were heathens as they put it, they just had a completely different way with country and the world, which I am sure the Lutherans, like many others today, still do not understand our first Australians.
The actual mission is well worth looking at with lots of memorabilia and 2 beautiful art Galleries with much of Albert’s work including those of his students from the period of when he set up the Art School for his mob in Hermannsberg. I still struggle immensely what our Australian Government of the time did to Albert re his lack of citizenship and taxes. Regardless, they and many of their cronies ripped Albert and his family off for his art work all for their own good. Anyhow, he is in my eyes, one of Australia’s greatest landscape artists.

After being in Hermannsberg for several hours we decided to drive out to Palm Valley, another spot we did not get to last trip. Overall, This, was a 22 Kms drive on a 4WD track. All fairly good track except for the last few river bed crossings over solid rock shelves, but well worth the drive. The terrain, gorges and rocky outcrops were very similar to the ranges in Arkaroola. This confirmed our Arkaroola guides comments that the Central Australian ranges are a result of our platelet movement millions of years ago with the ridges appearing across central Australia and extending to SE Asia and China.
Tomorrow we go to the Alice Beanie Festival where there will be thousands of donated beanies sold for Aboriginal Women’s Education. A great cause!

After that we are driving to Devils Marbles and then on to Tennant Creek, Warego Mine, to catch up with Dale and Ros. Our role will be to transport all the gold they have found safely back to Tasmania so they can continue mining with their Geiger counters! I am sure they will trust us with their load?

Photo of the Mulga Bar in the Kulgera Pub, courtesy
of the Pub web site

Exterior of the Kulgera Pub


On the road to Alice

Solar panels for comms along the Stuart highway

The bikers from the Kulgera Pub pass us on the way to Alice
travel safely and head up!

Microwave Comms towers.

A tea and coffee stop on the banks of the Finke River

Enter the gap at the Alice

Approaching the gap

Just as Albert was solid so too is his memorial

Albert's inspiration

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission entrance and sales

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission meat room

an old Hermannsberg Finke River Mission tractor

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission kitchen

German music on the piano

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission meat safe and ice chest

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission verandah

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission blacksmiths shop

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission drill ready for restoration

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission Holden FX ute and an early Dodge ute

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission Lutheran Church

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission tannery

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission welcome board,
a Namatjira family sketch

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission tannery

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission tannery guilotine

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission class room work

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission class room work

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission class room work

Hermannsberg Finke River Mission class room work

On the way out to Valley of the Palms


A horse on the road out to the Valley of the Palms



Valley of the Palms rugged ridges

Palms in the Valley

Palms in the Valley

Palms in the Valley

Palms in the Valley

The road in near the beginning of the Valley

A fossil in the river bed

a bird of the Valley of the Palms

another bird of the Valley of the Palms


Where we parked to walk in the last kilometre to the Palms

Back in the Alice we pass a goods train travelling
south through the gap


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